205 Mona Vale Road, TERREY HILLS (Corner McCarrs Creek Road and Mona Vale Road.)
Phone 94500300
Review originally posted on the 21st of December 2002
Kaiser Stub'n means emperors living room. Franz Josef, the Austrohungarian ruler, served the people well by remaining one of them. This Terrey Hills restaurant celebrates in decor and spirit his reign, love of hunting and his love for drinking beer. Should you be seeking land - remembering this sites name - it's spread out far and wide in this North Shore suburb made famous when Hoges and Dick Smith added value with Helipads and cee-ment ponds.
The Terrey Hillbilly crew were bussed into school during my formative years spent in French's - rather than The Black - Forest. But a sprinkling of Austrians immigrants back then has grown to support an enthusiastic following of Germans, Central Europeans and Hungarians nowadays.
This is not peasant cooking. That's for people like me: blunt-edged amateurs avoiding inedible fast food. Hunks of pork knuckle, halves of roasted duck, sliced veal and beef fillet all may appear elemental until tasted. The skills deployed in cooking these meats almost earn a wink from the mounted boars head on the wall and are accompanied by things such as bread dumplings, red cabbage, spaetzle and a sauerkraut of galactic & bona fide lightness. Two dishes served tableside also show warmth rather than retro kitsch, and a schnitzel overlaps its plate.
There are Austrian wheat beers ranging from fine yeast to dark, crystal clear and Pikantus dark bock beer from Erdinger. Served in timelessly tall glasses that preside euphorically like the totem of a friendly higher civilization. Senior, (and junior) staff who appear to actually like people, and a value for money many gastro-pubs of secondary importance would crawl over themselves to obtain.
The effortless grace all this occurs with may not always suggest a better age, though it certainly does indicate a more dignified one and merits a stop going to or returning from the Palm Beach Road.
Publishing the unpublishable while growing up and finding complacency
- Jimmy Olsen
- Sydney, Australia
- So far, much of the content here started life as a rather embarrassing personal journal, but it's now something I can begin to be proud of. In a warped way, both my sites are the growing inbred children of the now defunct parental site: www.butterboxmedia.com and characteristically (if not genetically) remain under construction. So for that I will apologize, but I won't ever say sorry for my inability to deal with the everyday, the trashy, the crappy, the dismissive, mass stupidity, the bland and the empty. Below are a few reviews from long ago that I exhumed from www.landofsurfandbeer.com.au, a site where I once occasionally posted under the screen name of hed. I have not changed the content of the reviews, however I have corrected my naff punctuation, incorrect spelling and frequent inability to use grammar correctly. Who knows? Perhaps one day this too will be corrected. In the meantime, the best hope you have at getting me to post anything about anything is by virtue of either being really terrible or really wonderful. Roll the dice.
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